Published date: May 14, 2025
A Journey Through Matsuyama: Healing with Aroma and Aftertaste
Room Type Stayed
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Experience of the stay
I stayed at the long-established ryokan "Daiwa-ya Honten," located in the center of Dogo Onsen, Matsuyama City, Ehime Prefecture. This time, I booked a western-style relax single room for one night. Check-in was after 3 PM. The staff's attentive service made the procedure smooth, and I headed straight to the hot springs.
Upon entering the large public bath, to my surprise, there was no one else there. I luxuriated alone in the spacious indoor and outdoor baths. The soft Dogo waters soaked right down to my core, enveloping me in a sensation where the fatigue from my trip and the hustle and bustle of everyday life simply melted away. The only sounds I could listen to in the quiet were the flowing water and my own breathing. It was truly a blissful moment.
After bathing, I relaxed in my room for a bit, and for dinner, I took a train to the bustling downtown area of Matsuyama City, Daikaido. That day, I enjoyed grilled straw-pollock at "Myoujinmaru," with its savory and juicy flavors impressing me. Following that, I moved to "Tonchin-go" for a drink and finished off with their bone-in chicken, making the evening highly satisfying. As a gourmet destination, the quality was top-notch, allowing me to enjoy both walking around the town and indulging in fantastic food.
After returning to the inn, I soaked in the hot springs again. The night baths had a different ambiance once more, with the air of the outdoor bath being cool and pleasant, gently relaxing both my mind and body. After bathing, I headed to "Daiwa-ya-tai" within the premises. Here, I could enjoy a sake bar and a retro candy bar, and while tipsy from the aroma of local sake in a Showa retro atmosphere, my travel sentiment deepened, carving itself into the wonderful memories of my trip.
Before bed, I spent time reading in the quiet room and fell into a deep sleep on the comfortable futon. The next morning, with the rising sun, I headed back to the hot springs. The morning waters kindly woke my body from within, making me feel refreshingly reset. After the morning bath, I stayed in my room for a little while, indulging in the guiltless pleasure of napping, a luxury only allowed while traveling.
I ultimately checked out at 9:30 AM. Although my stay was brief at just one night and two days, it was immensely satisfying in every aspect: the hot springs, the atmosphere, and the heartfelt hospitality. Particularly, the experience of enjoying the empty hot spring right after check-in became one of the highlights of this trip.
"Daiwa-ya Honten" is located right in the heart of a tourist area yet provides a quiet and serene environment. It was a place where I could truly feel the charm of Dogo Onsen, and I would love to visit again.
Experiences during the trip
A quiet airport in the morning. The moment I stepped on the land of Matsuyama after getting off the plane, the air felt soft, and I couldn't help but take a deep breath. It was a bit cloudy, but the weather was perfect for the start of my journey, a gentle day.
I headed to Dogo Onsen via limousine bus. The town seen through the window felt somewhat relaxed, and I could feel my mind gradually unwinding. After arriving in Dogo and dropping off my luggage, I went straight to the hot springs. Asukanoyu. It's new, but it has the scent of tradition. The water temperature was just right, melting away the fatigue of the trip and the clamor of everyday life.
After the bath, I had a bite of sweet summer orange jelly. It was cold, refreshing, and made me think, "I'm glad I came here." A short walk later, I arrived at the famous eel restaurant "Ogura." I ordered the Toku Mori Unaju, and the moment I picked up my chopsticks, steam wafted up. Crispy and fragrant on the outside, fluffy on the inside. The sweet and savory sauce soaked into the rice, making it absolutely perfect.
In the evening, I took the Iyo Railway tram into the heart of Matsuyama. My destination was "Myoujinmaru." At the counter seat, the bonito was grilled flamboyantly with straw right in front of me. The aroma tickled my nose and heightened my appetite. Salt, sauce, sashimi. Each piece of bonito had a different expression, and I could feel the depth of the Tosa sea. Sipping on a yuzu highball, I let out a satisfied sigh.
Then, in a casual stroll, I found "Tonchin-go." Here, I had bone-in chicken thighs and white dumplings. Both were rich in flavor but not heavy. Just one more bite, another bite... I couldn't stop. Tonchin sour, what an excellent lemon sour it was.
Back at the inn, I soaked in the hot springs again, bought a Kirin Lemon from a vending machine to quench my thirst after the bath, and savored the satisfaction of the day's accomplishments as the bubbles rose. Today was a citrus day.
The next morning, I walked along a quiet road to "Sushi Ogura." As the restaurant opened at 11, I ordered the chef's special nigiri. Each piece was fresh, and I felt a gentle warmth emanating from the chef's hands. The grilled striped mullet I ordered additionally was memorable for its balance of fragrance and sweetness. By the time I stood up, a quiet sense of satisfaction spread over my body. Both the ingredients and the nigiri were top-notch.
Around noon, I headed to Matsuyama Castle. I took the lift up and walked through the castle. The wind felt nice, and the height of the stone walls and the shadows of the trees were beautiful. Standing in the main keep, the city spread out before me, with the mountains and the sky slowly enveloping me. The mineral water I drank after sightseeing was so delicious that it probably felt good because my mind was at ease.
My second lunch stop was "Karaage Shokudo Goichi," where I had the teriyaki fried chicken set meal. Freshly fried chicken with a half-cooked egg. The sweet and savory sauce wrapped around it made it impossible to stop eating. I refreshed my mouth with oolong tea while my chopsticks reached for more fried chicken. The repetition was sheer bliss.
And then, wanting to take a quick break, I stopped by "Rey Coffee Roaster." I ordered an iced coffee and went to the counter seat. The quiet background music and the slow atmosphere set the scene. While listening to the music, I savored the lingering feelings of my journey, one sip at a time.
Matsuyama has the right flow of time. Not too hurried, but not boring either. It was a journey that leisurely drifted in that space, surrounded by hot springs, food, and the tranquility of the town. I spent my time here, slowly aligning my heart.
I’ll come back in autumn.